That Healthy Glow

by Maggie Staszcuk

What is Microneedling?

Microneedling is a minimally invasive procedure that uses fine needles to create controlled micro-injuries in the skin, stimulating collagen and elastin production. Also known as collagen induction therapy, it improves texture, scarring, fine lines, and pigmentation.  

A Brief History of Microneedling

The practice of microneedling is nothing new; the modality has been around for more than 100 years. The use of microneedling was first recorded in 1905 by the German dermatologist Ernst Kromayer, who used dental burs mounted on a motordriven flexible cord to treat scars, birthmarks, and hyperpigmentation.¹ Ninety years later, Dr. Desmond Fernandes developed a new technique to treat scars and wrinkles with the use of hypodermic needles. Around this time, Fernandes also developed a small needle stamp.² Today, the seemingly barbaric methods of microneedling have changed thanks to new technology and US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) regulations. 

Indications For Microneedling 

Microneedling may improve: 

• Rough or uneven skin texture 
• Fine lines and wrinkles 
• Acne scarring 
• Crepey skin 
• Hyperpigmentation 

 According to a 2008 study, skin treated with four microneedling sessions one month apart showed an increase in the production of collagen and elastin of up to 400 percent, six months post treatment.³ 

Contraindications and Client Screening

Although microneedling is indicated for all skin types, higher Fitzpatrick skin types should proceed with caution and be prepped with a skin lightener to reduce melanocyte activity for several weeks leading up to the treatment. Clients with active acne should also avoid receiving any microneedling treatments until their condition is under control, as it could result in the spread of bacteria and lead to infection. Clients suffering from severe rosacea may also experience flare-ups or infection as well. Additional contraindications include bleeding disorders, active herpes simplex, skin infections in the area to be treated, eczema, and psoriasis. When in doubt, don’t treat, and always refer your clients with suspicious lesions or skin disorders to their dermatologist. 

Insurance Considerations for Microneedling

Microneedling is considered an advanced modality in many states. Professional liability insurance that specifically covers microneedling helps protect you if a client alleges injury or adverse effects related to treatment.  

ASCP members may add microneedling coverage and other advanced modalities, including permanent makeup, microblading, and radio frequency services.  

Read more on the topic of microneedling in “That Healthy Glow” in the July/August 2020 issue of ASCP Skin Deep magazine.

FAQs

Does microneedling hurt?
Microneedling may cause slight pain and discomfort, especially near the “bonier” areas of the face.  Topical numbing agents may be used depending on state regulations and treatment depth. 

How much does microneedling cost?
The cost of microneedling varies by geographic location and provider experience. The average cost for a microneedling session can range from $200 to $700. 

How often should you microneedle?
Most treatment protocols recommend microneedling sessions every four to six weeks, depending on the client’s skin condition and desired results.  

What should you put on your skin after microneedling?
Posttreatment care should include gentle cleansing, hydrating products such as hyaluronic acid, and daily sunscreen. Exfoliants and active ingredients should be avoided until the skin barrier has recovered.  

 

Resources 

1. Olha Vorodukhina, “An Introduction to Medical Microneedling,” www.aestheticsjournal.com/feature/an-introduction-to-medical-microneedli...

2. Vorodukhina, “An Introduction to Medical Microneedling.” 

3. Aashim Singh and Savita Yadav, “Microneedling: Advances and Widening Horizons,” Indian Dermatology Online Journal 7, no. 4 (July–August 2016): 244–54. https://doi.org/10.4103/2229-5178.185468.